Category: The Ingredient

1. Welcome to the world of Omegas

   Posted on 12:00pm Monday 28th Feb 2022

   

   We cover this briefly in our March Soveral Monthly (scroll down to sign up) but here we delve into Alexandra’s knowledge of all things omega…
   
   Omega in Greek refers to end or tail. In oil chemistry it refers the end of the molecular structure of an oil. The number is determined by counting how far along in this structure there is a double bond. For example, in omega-3 the double bond is repeated after three carbons in the chain. It is this that gives each oil its unique profile.

   THE HIGH OMEGAS
   The higher the number, such as Omega-9, the heavier the oil is as it has longer carbon chains. These fatty acids are excellent lubricants to help the skin stay pliable and are part of the skin’s barrier. The skin naturally makes lots of these high omegas as they make up roughly 30% of the skin’s fatty acids.

   Over-production of Omega 9 gives way to oily skin and sometimes acne breakouts. When the skin is lacking the lower Omegas, which it cannot produce (it gets it from diet) it compensates by overproducing Omega-9, often resulting in blocked pores. Therefore, using oils with Omega 6 and 3 is a way to help the skin to find balance.

   Under-production of Omega 9 gives way to dry skin that is often flaky. This happens with ageing and becomes more pronounced with the menopause. This together with the decline in collagen is a great contributor to accelerated ageing. In this case, using oils rich in Omega 9 is of great benefit for the skin.

   THE LOW OMEGAS
   The lower the number, such as Omega 6 and 3 the lighter and more easily absorbed the oil is. This is great because the skin cannot readily make these omegas, we are dependent on getting them from our diet, or topically, and our skin needs them for its healthy functions. When massaged on the skin, these small omegas, especially Omega 3 can penetrate deep into the skin, offering it its regulatory and anti-inflammatory properties.

   It sounds wonderful… but there’s a hitch. These short chain fatty acids can easily oxidise, and once they do, it means rancid oil, which feeds the bad bacteria – not a good thing for acne prone skin or skin that becomes easily inflamed, such as eczema or psoriasis. To avoid this from happening, we run a natural and organic antioxidant from rosemary through our oils to preserve their wonderful properties.
   
   HOW I FORMULATE WITH OMEGAS
   Each product is perfectly balanced, offering the skin a readily bioavailable source of fatty acids to deeply nourish it as well as offering it protection by helping it reinforce its natural barrier. Sunflower seed oil is the base of many of my formulations, but this is not just any sunflower oil, it is an organic oil that is very high in omega 6 in linoleic acid, which often the skin is deprived of.

   TOP TIP
   Find out which oils your skin likes and you will know which omegas your skin needs.
   Avocado – High in omega 9
   Apricot Kernel – Blend of Omega 9 and 6
   Sunflower – High in Omega 6 and 3
   
   Each are available as organic base oils for you to blend at home – shop our vegetable oils

   Omegas in our products:
   For high omegas: Angel Balm.
   For feeding the skin a balanced Omega ratio: Midnight and Forever Young oils.
   For the low omegas: Spotless Gel, Bespoke Oils.

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2. Be the Super hero

   Posted on 3:00am Friday 20th Aug 2021

   
   

    Pomegranate, grapefruit, Siberian ginseng and . . .bio-fermented leaves?
   
   Not quite the ingredients you would imagine for a super smoothie bowl to put pep in your step in the morning, but exactly what you need in your skincare.
   
   We could go on, and on about our Super Hero potion and gauze masks until the bio-fermented leaves blow in – but what do you really need to know about this vegan beauty?
   
   First up, we have Siberian ginseng to stimulate and energise your skin. Ginseng helps to tighten the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. This all works towards helping negate the appearance of fatigue and stress, and giving the skin a much needed wakeup call when you’re still trying to peel your eyes open in the morning.

   Numero dos, pomegranate extract. This provides an amazing shot of vitamin C in a bioavailable form. The vitamin C will aid with brightening your skin, and being naturally high in antioxidants, will protect against free radicals. But what is a “bioavailable form” I hear you cry?! What that really means is, it is ready to go, much like chomping down in to an actual pomegranate, your body recognises what it is, what is in it and knows exactly how to extract the good stuff to nourish your body. Your body does not need to convert the ingredients in to a more “user friendly” ingredient before helping it along to get where it needs to go.

   Third up, grapefruit. If you can eat this straight without pulling a face I salute you – however I find it easier to get the super antioxidant (I’m not just throwing adjectives around, it is classed as a super antioxidant) and anti-pollutant from the Super Hero potion. Living in London, I’ve been of the opinion that the more barriers I can put between my skin and the free radicals in the environment, the better. It is easy to think “if I put more on, surely it must be doing more?” Not necessarily.  The more anti-oxidant’s, the harder your skin works to mop up any free radical interlopers. Doing a thorough sweep will get the job done, however your skin, doing its best Usain Bolt with a broom  impression, will just exhaust itself and could possibly lead to an increase in signs of aging. Our grapefruit extract is perfectly balanced to provide all of the support your skin needs for an antioxidant and anti-pollutant boost, without sending it into overdrive, when coupled with the pomegranate extract.

   Fourthly, we use food grade inulin, derived from bio-fermentation, to create the best growing conditions for the good bacteria in the microflora on your skin; much like you should support the growth of good bacteria in your gut. Think bananas, but for your face. This works towards making sure that your skin is balanced, and isn’t being overrun with the bad bacteria that can cause breakouts and inflammation on the skins surface.

   Last, but by no means least, is everyone’s favourite friend – hyaluronic acid. Molecularly speaking hyaluronic acid can hold a thousand times its weight in water, and works on the epidermal layer of the skin ensuring that your skin does not dehydrate, and appears plumper. Our hyaluronic acid is completely vegan and derived from the bio-fermentation of leaves, helping to make your skin baby soft and bouncy.

   Super Hero truly offers full skin support, helping nourish, protect and hydrate.

   Now, possibly the most important thing – how to use it.
   You know the old adage – all good things in moderation. Super Hero should be applied after an oil massage so that your pores are open and more receptive to absorb the potion – if you find that your skin does not respond well to oil the Super Hero can be used after cleansing thoroughly and spraying with Floral Rain mist. Bear in mind, the more you use the Siberian ginseng, the more your skin recognises it, and the less effective it will be. For best results use Super Hero Potion in the morning every day for 7 days with 21 days break, or use in the morning 2-3 times a week continuously. Super Hero gauze masks can be used at your discretion as a boost to your skin but we would recommend using it for an event or as a self-care pick me up.
   by Kristina

3. Rose Geranium; balancing for the skin, body and mind

   Posted on 9:09am Tuesday 7th Feb 2017

   

   Image: @marcmoll_menorca

   The Rose Geranium flower is native to south africa, and its essential oil, made from the plants organic leaves and flowers, has a fragrant mix of rose and citrus. When applied to the skin, it balances the production of sebum, making it a great choice for both dry and oily skin types. Rose Geranium can be found in Soveral’s Angel Balm, Midnight Oil and the Spotless Gel.

   Did you know: Rose Geranium was introduced to Italy, Spain, and France in the 17th century, and was commonly planted inside homes to keep evil spirits at bay!